Grey Sheep


Cremona / italy


the cooper union school of art

Graduation year


ENNEMENOUNO is an independent women's fashion label based in the northern Italian town of Cremona. It was founded in 2012 by designers Darren Eryou and Paola Morandi. ENNEMENOUNO's approach to fashion design is based on searching for points of harmony and balance between contemporary innovation and antique Italian fabrics and sartorial traditions. Unique artistic forms and symbols adorn ENNEMENOUNO's collections through the use of appliqué, embroidery and prints. Clean cuts and structured lines together with elegant and essential silhouettes create a sense of timelessness which is an essential part of the brand's spirit.

ENNEMENOUNO means "N minus One" and represents the brand's spirit and philosophy. It is a philosophical concept of Gilles Deleuze and Félix Guattari’s which refers to a necessity to create new organizational ideas and forms – to which “one” (leader, value, idea, principle, community) belongs only as subtracted.

What this means for ENNEMENOUNO is an approach to design innovation based on an open ended creative process which is oriented around creative investigation, the "chance" encounter, and the discovery of new connections between fashion and the world. This is a deeply personal process and new collections are not so much "conceived, drawn and produced" but they are rather developed through a creative and material process which follows often unexpected lines and inspirations and often leads into new an unexpected territories and forms.

Two other essential elements of the ENNEMENOUNO brand are Local production using traditional tailoring techniques and the constant sourcing of local autochthonous textiles and fibres. Research on fabrics and local fabric production is an ongoing process which allows for ENNEMENOUNO to produce clothing made in high quality natural Italian fabrics. ENNEMENOUNO's collections express a wide range of technical skill and artisan technique including organic fabrics that respect environmental and fair trade standards.

ENNEMENOUNO's collections are made by hand in its laboratory in Cremona, Italy utilizing only traditional tailoring techniques in order to guarantee garments which truly reflect the sartorial excellence of Made in Italy. Blind hems, hand sewn buttonholes together with pick, catch and felling stitching contribute to garments which have a quality and sense of elegance which cannot be achieved through modern machine sewing.

With a design vision merging contemporary silhouettes with timeless textures, prints, and embroidered forms ENNEMENOUNO creates garments in which the future and past are welded together with a delicate and essential accent on femininity.

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