Lady Gaga and NOT JUST A LABEL push fashion boundaries to the limits in the final edition of our Celebrity Christmas Special.
No current pop icon has a more extravagant and experimental attitude to fashion than the truly sensational pop/style icon Lady Gaga, and NJAL is proud to be host to so many of the designers that the singer has chosen items from. For the first time, you can buy the unique items worn by Lady Gaga on a number of occasions; items which all have in common the strong focus on cut, shape and silhouette that characterises her futuristic and avant-garde style.
AND_i Andreas Eberharter trained as a goldsmith and sculptor before becoming a freelance artist and designer in Vienna. After numerous national and international exhibitions, he founded the label AND_i in 2001. Since 2007, People’s Revolution has presented AND_i designs in New York, Los Angeles and Paris, and the label’s story of success continues to unfold.
Andreas Eberharter approaches jewellery design with the mind of a sculptor, seeking a free interpretation of the language of forms, shapes and materials. He experiments with materials like aluminium and acrylic glass, although Swarovski pearls, leather and 925 Sterling Silver Round Belcher chains find equal importance in his creations.
Inspired by Tyrolean buckhorns, Andreas Eberharter designed his A/W 09 collection “Horny”, by merging metal, aluminium (which is now becoming something of a trademark to his label) and leather in bold and solid pieces of jewellery and, for the first time, accessories. Lady Gaga has worn several pieces from this collection, including the aluminium Eye Patch used in the “Paparazzi” music video and the Shin Guard bangle she wore on the cover of Maxim magazine. Both are available in The Online Shop.
ORSCHEL-READStefán Orschel-Read’s designs avant-garde menswear couture under the label Orschel-Read. He says he was born in India in a tiny town above the cloud line, but spent most of his childhood in rural Scotland, where his fascination with fashion grew and eventually led him to do a foundation in fashion at London College of Fashion.
Orschel-Read’s first show was a collaboration with Russian designer Pavel Rudanovsky called unFashion. He described it as “an avant-garde, three-dimensional show blending design with live experimental music, ballet and performance art.” He went on to do his first solo show in 2006 in aid of the Hope Rwanda charity, and it was here where his signature look was first presented – an androgynous male wore a sharply tailored lounge suit paired with sculptural hairpieces and heels; an extreme and very British dandy that perhaps exists in an alternate universe and comes into ours for the duration of the show.
His collection ‘Mourning for Orlando’, was inspired by Virginia Woolf’s 1928 book Orlando. The collection explores the concept that there is no ‘divide’ between male and female - there are differences, but far more similarities; the passage of our body through time and space and the modernisation of the British Aristocracy.
For his A/W 2009 collection, he designed the Wing Trousers that Lady Gaga has worn on more than one occasion, including an appearance on famous German TV show “Wetten Dass”.
ARA JOAra Jo has recently graduated with a degree in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins, but has already established her up-and-coming label here in London and is receiving much attention from fashion press. She describes her womenswear collection as one for women who dare to let their confidence translate into style, and who seek to entertain, and stand out through wearing exceptional pieces. Inspired by London and the wildly experimental side to fashion, Ara Jo’s design pushes the boundaries of shape and structure to the very limits.
For her A/W 09 graduate collection, Ara Jo found inspiration in the idea of hypnosis. Her thought was to create a collection for people to relive their happy memories from the past; to allow the wearer of the items a nostalgic trip through the hypnotising flair of the clothes. Ara Jo said: “Imagine, when people are hypnotised, they can’t really move, talk. And I started to design from that point. People are hypnotised inside my collection.”
Each garment in the collection that Lady Gaga laid her eye on is connected to itself in some sense – pants are joined together at knees, jumper sleeves are fastened to the body. The result is a dominant silhouette, one that suits Lady Gaga’s androgynous and futuristic style. Ara Jo explained that Dazed & Confused Magazine contacted her about the Short Boning Dress after seeing her collection online. A few weeks later, Lady Gaga was seen wearing the dress on-stage and in an OUT magazine editorial. More items from the collection, including a silver-sequinned bodysuit, have been used by Lady Gaga in both Dazed and Confused and outside editorial purpose since then.
ASCIONERaffaele Ascione started out studying Fashion and Cutting in Ireland, where he was shortlisted for the Jim Kemmy Fashion Award in 2003. After re-locating to the UK where he completed his BA (with First Class Honors) at UCCA Rochester, he showcased his collection at Graduate Fashion Week 2009 and was nominated for the Portfolio Award.
In his years of education, Raffaele says he has developed a strong personal design process that he calls "emotional designing", and a preference of working with his own observations and perceptions of emotions, choices and characteristics rather than solid research. He worked for several designers including Gareth Pugh for a while after his graduation, and has recently obtained a final Masters degree in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins.
Besides university, he has maintained the young, independent label Ascione. He focuses on creating small capsule collections through his "emotional design" process, which consist entirely of one-off pieces. He has devoted much time every single one in order to get the precise cut, décor and shape. The collection “The Mothers Instinct” holds strong elements of femininity in its detailed embellishments and subtle romantic silhouettes, but it is sided with a dark almost gothic feeling. The result is a unique collection that juxtaposes the structural and emotional messages of the design.
His association with Lady Gaga started when she wore the Cape from his A/W 09 collection to the HMV- Gaga Event on London’s Oxford Street in September, 2009. The singer fell in love with the Cape and the rest of the collection after seeing it in the press offices at Dazed and Confused Magazine.
The cape is a heavily-constructed piece with a strong craftsmanship, including hand made pleated trims, strict attention to cut and hand made shoulder construction.