FASHIONALLY Presentation Fall Winter 2019 & FASHIONALLY Collection #13
CAR|2IE by Carrie Kwok
CAR|2IE’s presentation was a lavish picnic on the lawn, with ladies in beautiful clothes surrounded by antiques and finery. This season Kwok finds her muse in Rose, the character created by author Yi Shu who is an image of innocent beauty.
Kwok’s collection features plenty of sheer fabrics with embroidery, exuding confidence and refinement. A two-sided jacket, plain on one side and embroidered on the other, is intended to illustrate people’s multifaceted personalities. Even the tweed jacket, blazer and overcoat carry a touch of romanticism. While unabashedly celebrating femininity, these ensembles urge everyone, boy or girl, to embrace their inner Rose. As in previous collections, Kwok’s newest pieces feature designs with a structural form and an emphasis on proportion. Luxurious and daring, they are replete with fine details and play with asymmetrical cuts and exquisite styling suggestions. The looks were paired with flats and heels to show their easy transformation from office wear to party wear.
ARTO. by Arto Wong
For ARTO.’s show, the venue was transformed into a tranquil gallery, with paintings designed by Wong herself hanging on the wall. The clothes and paintings mirror one another, creating a strong visual effect like installation art. A palette of red, purple, teal, green and baby blue, meanwhile, made for some strong visual contrasts. Flowers, the symbol of beauty, are a source of endless inspiration but Wong has managed to imbue the collection with refreshing new ideas. From seed to flower, the waiting time can be long, but it is always worth the wait. ARTO.’s FW 2019 collection chronicles this amazing process. Just like her debut season last year, Wong explores new knitting techniques, which is seemingly becoming a trademark of her knitwear label, as well as graphics to create the shapes of flowers. Since each flower is unique, she has tried to make sure that hers are too, with different sizes, and different ruffles for the petals. Using premium Japanese polyester mixed with wool, the silhouettes are voluminous but the clothes are lightweight. The use of bold, solid colours also helps to bring this innovative collection to life.
YMDH by Jason Lee
YMDH’s fashion presentation was set against an eclectic mix of Chinese furniture – from large vases to cheeky calligraphy – and played on puns to present the coming together of western and Chinese cultures. Colourful Cantonese and Mandarin rap music set the tone for the presentation of YMDH’s debut collection. The new streetwear label features traditional Chinese costume details like embroidery alongside the latest urban symbols in a tongue-in-cheek manner. While the silhouette is unisex and oversized, there is also a focus on cutting and use of fabrics. Titled “King of Kowloon”, this collection is about an emperor going out of the palace in a quest to learn the life of the people. Pieces like the Mandarin jacket, with denim and tassels strung together, reflect the designer’s youthful imagination and carefree attitude. Even though in “plain clothes”, there is a sense of pride and courage that is almost regal.
FASHIONALLY Collection #13
Three ex-YDC fashion designers who began their fashion journeys at Alternatif Fashion Workshop jointly staged FASHIONALLY Collection #13 during Hong Kong Fashion Week FW 2019
Incorporating performance art and live music, the special runway show was set in a youth hostel where people from different backgrounds met. Models lounged on bunk beds, worked out and did their laundry. There are a lot of stories interwoven into the show to present the designers’ different points of view. This free-wheeling, eclectic vibe neatly demonstrates the designers’ “Alternatif” DNA.
Opening the show with his signature mix of edgy meets practical. Two musicians playing the accordion and melodica helped to create a sombre, military-like atmosphere.
His FW 2019 collection comprises military-inspired ensembles for women and men, and this is his first collection featuring menswear. There are deconstructed military jackets and blazers, and form-fitting asymmetric cuts that convey a strong rebellious image. The attention-grabbing jackets, sweaters and windbreakers feature a clever mix of wool, leather and high-tech materials, with contrasting matte and glossy details delivering an edgy, sporty vibe.
Next on the runway was Phenotypsetter by Jane Ng, who presented a conceptual collection that explores the structures of innerwear. Her collection utilises plastic structures inspired by whalebone corsetry used in period clothing to striking effect.
Ng wants to show what is always hidden, with lining, seams and quilting becoming prominent design details. Models took time to help each other dress on the stage, revealing the intricacy of the designs as a kind of performance.
Ng was particularly inspired by Eastern European styles this season. The silhouettes are almost unisex, with plenty of ruffles, layering and a juxtaposition of undersize and oversize for some interesting mix ‘n’ match ideas.
The youngest among the three designers, ALEE LEE launched the second season of her eponymous label, which is about travellers on a personal journey of discovery.
Lee presented a dramatic collection filled with statement pieces that are unique and trend-defying, exploring new applications of materials such as down feather for hoodies, dresses and bottoms.
While there are conceptual musings about the past and present, her designs are creative wearables. A pop of pink and silver stands out from the predominantly black, white and neutral palette, while the mix of materials – as well as draping and deconstructive techniques – piqued the audience’s interest.
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