Fashionally Collection #11 | Young Stars Shine Bright On Hong Kong Stage

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24 January 2018

FASHIONALLY Collection #11 | Young Stars Shine Bright On Hong Kong Stage


The biannual FASHIONALLY showcase champions Hong Kong’s up-and-coming designers. In collaboration with The Hong Kong Trade Development Council, NJAL reviews the show’s 11th edition, and its most innovative and exciting creatives.

FASHIONALLY Collection #11 and the debut FASHIONALLY presentation were recently staged during Hong Kong Fashion Week FW2018, where the spotlight was on eight Hong Kong designers that showcased distinct styles and endless possibilities.


PHENOTYPSETTER



Opening the show was Phenotypsetter, an avant-garde label not meant for the faint-hearted. Designer Jane Ng, who is renowned for her playful and forward looking attitude, has a penchant for handmade details, alternative textures and graphics. Her latest collection, “Expand & Contract”, is a vivid example of expansion and contraction through juxtaposing volumes, layers and prints. Colourful vinyl raincoats are among the highlights of her latest collection.


112 MOUTAINYAM



112mountainyam represents the commercially successful designer Mountain Yam’s vision of what a sophisticated and independent woman wants in her wardrobe. Characterised by a confident mix of sportswear and party wear elements, his latest collection explores the idea of me and is about unmasking one’s true self. Long coats and cropped trousers make up the prevailing silhouette, with much play on textures, prints, asymmetry and sheerness.


KEVIN HO



Kevin Ho’s party wear embraces sophistication, individuality and modernity, and he is able to strike a fine balance between power and subtlety. His collection is filled with statement pieces that combine a highly structural silhouette and distinctive textiles while keen craftsmanship results in a cutting edge aesthetic. This time, he draws inspiration from Cubism, delivering a cool play on geometric lines and cubic forms, top stitching details and atypical tailoring.


YEUNG CHIN



Yeung Chin has an impressive CV that encompasses Olympic-standard sportswear and ready-to-wear. His namesake label, however, is a far cry from commercialism but challenges fashion norms. The designer likes to use art to impact the old fashion aesthetic, and utilises dance moves to perform fashion on the catwalk. His latest collection, “Rock Geisha”, embraces Japanese culture and includes a deconstructed Kimono made into a new kind of ready-to-wear.


FROMCLOTHINGOF



The name FromClothingOf comes from “Exlibris” or “My Book” and refers to women claiming the right to how they dress. Shirley Wong’s designs are meticulously tailored and structured, characterised by layering and fine details that bring out a powerful yet feminine style. There is also a hint of nostalgic theatricality that comes from her past experience as a TV costume designer. The inspiration for this season came from an article about French people needing only a 10-item wardrobe. The idea is, if you have 10 items, how do you create value for each?


FASHION PLAYS

In a new initiative launched this year at Hong Kong Fashion Week, designers were given the chance to show off their brand and ideas in a standalone presentation that crossed over to the realm of theatre. Three Hong Kong designer labels – DEMO., MODEMENT and HANG – took over this intimate stage to put on an unconventional fashion show/play inspired by their own unique sets. Visually and conceptually different, these stories presented their latest collections in all their glory while taking the audience on their respective creative journeys.


DEMO.



Derek Chan, the brain behind DEMO., has an academic background that walks a fine line between science and art and this is evident in his designs. Creating contemporary classics, he embraces  sartorial traditions and modernity and rejects the complex rules assigned to menswear today while preserving a nostalgic sentiment. Incorporating the soft edges of womenswear and pairing them with progressive detailing, Chan has managed to dismantle gender’s strict barriers with his refreshing yet sophisticated take on menswear.

Chan wanted to express DEMO.’s brand identity fully in this presentation. Inspired by the 1940s and 1950s, DEMO. does not shy away from portraying a softer masculinity and adding new elements such as waterproof fabrics and bold colour blocking to give the classics a new twist. Iconic looks were recreated in a playful manner and juxtaposing an old school gentlemen’s club with 21st century boyish pursuits offered up a titillating mismatch.


MODEMENT



Through MODEMENT, Aries Sin has been crafting a unique unisex style through minimalist cutting and unconventional silhouettes. She is influenced by the multi-faceted culture of Hong Kong, ranging from the diverse cityscape to local food stores. Recently opening its first concept store in Hong Kong, MODEMENT believes that every piece of clothing carries a meaning of its own that should inspire the wearer.

MODEMENT's presentation was about light. In the Book of Genesis, God called the light “day,” and the darkness “night.” He is the master who uses the sky as a canvas. Inspired by the very different lights she saw during her travels in Europe, in the presentation Sin recreated the changing sky from dawn till dusk. The clothes, which are rich in impressionist colours and handcrafted details, are intended to be appreciated like paintings.


HANG.


HANG, meaning ramp in German, refers to the imagery of a plane in front view but a slope in side view. Despite this pithy brand philosophy, Mim Mak’s designs often convey an element of surprise. To strengthen the connection between the clothes and the wearer, Mak pays special attention to fabrics and small components such as buttons and threads to make a statement.

An office with everything painted in red served as the backdrop of HANG’s presentation. Mak infused humour and surprise alongside tension into this surrealist workplace. Fascinated by office dynamics, she used these visuals and symbolisms as a source of inspiration, and they were incorporated into the latest collection with her signature detailing and layering.

 

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