Ukrainian fashion brand NADYA DZYAK unveils its latest collection, FW2425, drawing inspiration from the ancient symbols of Trypillian culture - the circle and the spiral, frequently adorning Ukrainian pysanky, pottery, and ancient jewellery. Our ancestors expressed their worldview through a rich tapestry of visual elements, shaping the ethnic code that preserves the essence of our identity. The circle and the spiral symbolise the Sun, representing rebirth and the eternal cycle of life. In times of adversity, we find solace in reconnecting with our origins.
"In the most challenging times, we ponder the sacred meanings and our roots," shares the brand's designer.
"For years, our collections have explored the theme of the circle. When I close my eyes, I envision circles and spirals. As I create patterns of frills, my hand instinctively forms these shapes, as if guided from above. Delving into this theme, I discovered that the circle and spiral are the oldest symbols in our culture, present in Trypillian ceramics and decorating pysanky, embroidered garments, and household items. This symbology is ingrained in our cultural DNA. I incorporated these motifs into the frill patterns and guipure lacework of our garments."
In the new collection, Nadya Dzyak experiments with materials, introducing guipure lace for the first time. Dresses, bodysuits, jumpsuits, and gloves feature integrated circle and spiral motifs on guipure, echoed in pleated frills, a signature of the brand. Combining multiple types of guipure and mesh with asymmetric pleating recalls the ornamental patterns of the Trypillian era.
Transparent textures are an integral part of the brand's DNA. In this collection, they contrast with voluminous bomber jackets, oversized blazers, and puff sleeves on dresses. A new chequered print, reminiscent of 80s-90s grunge fashion, adds a contemporary edge, while voluminous floral petals adorn skirts and jackets. This print, executed in various textures - cotton and wool, adorns dresses with asymmetrical hemlines and voluminous sleeves, as well as quilted bombers with floral embellishments, blouses, and skirts.
The primary colours of the FW24/25 collection are black and red, reflecting the Ukrainian embroidery techniques. Black represents our fertile land, currently suffering, while shades of red symbolise our blood, passion, and love for life. As always, the brand continues to work with pleated fabric, produced in Kharkiv, despite the city's regular shelling by Russian forces.
Transparency remains a hallmark of the brand. In this collection, varying sizes of mesh, guipure, and black tulle create an illusory optical effect, accentuated by geometric frills reminiscent of circles and spirals.
The lookbook for the new collection was shot in Kyiv by an all-Ukrainian team, reflecting the resilience and creativity of the Ukrainian people in the face of adversity.
"At 05:50 in the morning, we sat in a café at the railway station in Kyiv. I arrived with my team from Dnipro for the photoshoot. We were waiting for a model who arrived by night train from Kharkiv... The stories she shared about her life are unimaginable to someone from a peaceful country in today's world... But we must work while life continues in this distorted reality.
This girl has the ability to transform into incredible characters, momentarily forgetting the horrors," recalls Nadya Dzyak.
Trypillian symbolism encompasses over 300 individual signs and symbolic blocks, representing the written language of a people that has preserved vital knowledge about itself through time. Today, history unfolds like a spiral, as we endure the cycles of destruction and rejuvenation. The symbol of the circle always speaks to us of the Sun, rebirth, and the connection between generations. And the artist's hand, across millennia, continues to follow the subconscious.
