Filippo Soffiati

University / School:
iuav university of venice
Production Location:
Contact Designer

Collection – Dorsoduro

«Those who are truly contemporary, who truly belong to their time, are those who neither perfectly coincide with it nor adjust themselves to its demands. They are thus in this sense irrelevant [inattuale]. But precisely because of this condition, precisely through this disconnection and this anachronism, they are more capable than others of perceiving and grasping their own time. Naturally, this noncoincidence, this “dys-chrony”, does not mean that the contemporary is a person who lives in another time»
(Giorgio Agamben)

Reflecting on the liquid border between times, between themes, crossing more fields in a recoding that investigates the ways of being contemporary.
In Venice, more than any other place, you can see these stratifications between ancient and contemporary, high and low, elegant and sporty.
Ceremony dress, workwear, sportswear, beachwear, costume, sacred vestments.
The collection wants to make a temporal leap between the dress of the Renaissance and contemporary sportswear, in particular between the farsetto (which came from the pourpoint, a padded shirt originally worn by knights under the armour) and the football uniform.
The fabrics work on the same contrast: ecclesiastical stoles, treated as relics and incorporated between two layers of organza, are combined with football shirts and denim, the uniform of the contemporary knight at rest.
These suggestions come from the place where I live in recent years: the Dorsoduro district in Venice, emblem of stratifications and contrasts.
This area extends from Santa Marta - a popular district still inhabited by Venetian workers and handymen, a bubble where the city still seems to be alive - to the old town stereotyped by costumes and masks.
I graduated in 2016 from the Iuav University of Venice after a journey started in Visual Arts and ended in Fashion, aspects (and passions) that continue to intertwine in me, in my imaginary and in my projects. During the degree course I had the opportunity to investigate and deepen different aspects of the fashion design, thanks also to the specialization course in Bag design and product development in collaboration with Bottega Veneta, the site specific installation Fabric Garden for Bonotto Editions, the project for Lineapelle for Leather Talents, the jewelry capsule collection for Venice Design Week. After graduation I started working as a consultant for the development of collections, special projects and shows. I immediately needed, however, to create an autonomous story in which to bring together my references in total independence. Venice is the city I live in and has become a source of constant inspiration, a suggestion for every project I design: water, transparency, veiling, incrustations, contrasts of materials, historical costumes, Renaissance painting, precious fabrics, sacred iconography, dilapidated religious buildings. This is my attempt to tell the story of the contemporary: «Contemporary is the one who, dividing and interpolating time, is capable of transforming it and putting it in relation with other times. He is able to read history in unforeseen ways, to “cite it” according to a necessity that does not arise in any way from his will, but from an exigency to which he cannot not respond» (Giorgio Agamben). Contemporary should be understood as simultaneously. It does not mean being current, therefore, but being in continuity with history.