A tale of romance and a tribute to my hometown.
Nostalgic of the sound, scent, and sight of waves crashing against the rocks of Tapiade Casariego, Spain. I designed NORDESTE with my hometown in mind. The aggressively beautiful landscape serves as the backdrop of a love story between two dancers brought to this remote location, from the Opéra Garnier, by the powerful
Nordeste wind. They perform on a new stage.
The sea is anchored in my family of surfers. I explored 1930s swimwear and reinterpreted modern wetsuits, to which I added my own sleek sartorial flair. A “surfer du soir” in a chic sleeveless jumpsuit, worn with detached sleeves is how I envision a man of the sea.
The cultural influence of the Principality of Asturias, Spain, is found in the bicolour trousers with ballooned knees evoking the outfit of “Gaiteros”, those unmissable musicians performing the hymn of the region on special occasions. I also pay tribute to the golden-age of haute couture, especially to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s gigot and puffed sleeves, but on a fitted top to create a glamorous silhouette for men.
The charm and elegance of Sade Adu whose music enthrals me as well as the photography of the late Peter Lindbergh fuelled my design process too. The Black Rose look was inspired by Nijinsky’s ballet costume in Jean-Louis Vaudoyer’s ballet Le Spectre de la Rose. It is the piece de resistance of the collection. It is romantic and elegant. It expresses both vulnerability and sensuality while showcasing meticulous handwork as it took over five weeks from conception to completion.
With every new collection, I rethink the white shirt of my grandfather, Pedro. The white double shirt is a combination of volume exploration and layering. It is a playful piece that can be worn differently.
The hydrangeas from my grandmother, Palmira, as body jewellery, as a shield. It is a collaboration with Azabache artisans from Asturias. Azabache is a unique and esoteric stone in Northern Spain. It is the stone of the pilgrims, perfect for guidance, protection, and healing.
Tailoring continues to be the focal point of my creative message. Sharp and extravagant high-waisted trousers in immaculate white complete the collection. They nod to the traditional haute couture bridal grand finale. A veil, hand embroidered with my grandmother’s flowers, is the exclamation point of NORDESTE.