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London College of Fashion MA_12 POEMTRY Catwalk Show
...live streaming on NJAL
For the first time, London College of Fashion (LCF) and NJAL have partnered to give viewers and aficionados the chance to see the famed LCF Master's Degree (MA) show live. NJAL will host the live stream, enabling thousands from across the world to view the show online as it happens. The catwalk show will feature the next generation of notoriously daring and forward thinking designers that come from this historic school. NJAL has helped propel a huge number of LCF MA graduates including Úna Burke, Hasan Hejazi and Jennifer Morris to success.
Taking over the beautiful surroundings of the Raphael Gallery at the V&A on Thursday 2 February 2012 will be this year’s crop of menswear and womenswear designers all vying for Collection of the Year for Womenswear and Menswear. This year, the awards will be presented by young British designer Christopher Raeburn, recent winner of the British Fashion Council’s award for best ‘Emerging Talent – Menswear’. Best known for his innovative and directional, ethically-aware collections, Christopher is currently being supported by London College of Fashion’s pioneering business incubator, The Centre for Fashion Enterprise.
Designers whose collections will grace the catwalk this year for the POEMTRY show include graduates from the MA Fashion Design Technology in both Womenswear and Menswear and one graduate of the MA Digital Fashion course, Beatrice Newman. As one of NJAL’s Black Sheep, Beatrice’s label, Korlekie, has developed with her signature style, which reflects eastern regality and embellishment.
Rahull Verma, whose collection is no less elegant, will show loose and flowing silhouettes. The designer from India has finally achieved his dream of receiving an MA from LCF. Although he features unusual pairings of fabric, like wool and tulle, his pattern cutting is the highlight of the collection.
Yao Zhang will present her menswear collection inspired by ‘Stains’. “The collection started from a feeling that stains can never be removed but stay as part of you—I examined two aspects: stains and scars.” Her collection features a mix of materials and colours, digitally printed with splatters of blood representing the stains and scars.
Another graduate who uses digital print is Joseph Turvey. His outfits are printed with original drawings of his ideal ‘Grey Gardens’ boy. Inspired by the documentary, each of Joseph’s outfits takes on a life of its own when placed on the male body. His delightfully colourful collection features a melange of delicate materials, much like those sported by the Ediths of Grey Gardens.
But colour is not necessary to make an impact. Jianfeng Huang’s striking menswear collection takes influence from optical art and geometric shapes. “I’m pretty much obsessed with this art movement. I love the concept of optical art and illusions appearing in fashion, and feel it’s a really strong way to present ideas on the catwalk”, he says.
Jianfeng’s illusions are structured and calculated to form perfect curves that the eye plays with. Melanie Anayiotos, however creates illusions with texture. By using draping, her collection explores what happens to an ageing body with the appearance of wrinkles and imperfections. Her smooth lines and hidden stitching create flowing waves. “I invented this draping technique and developed it myself. The effect is like a moment of movement frozen in time. The ‘wrinkles’ are a literal translation of the human skin, but also what happens when women wear garments and get creases they see as imperfections.”
Tina Elisabeth Reiter uses traditional methods of sewing to create a menswear collection referencing Austrian folk costume. Like Melanie, Tina uses texture in her work, but to emulate traditional Austrian dress. Tina does the smocking and gathering by hand. Her vintage colour palette gives the essence of a different era.
To see these collections in real time, on the catwalk, be sure to visit NJAL’s live stream of the LCF MA-12 POEMTRY Catwalk Show on Thursday, 2 February at 8pm GMT.